Farm Animals

SAANEN MILKING GOATS

Meet our three beautiful pure breed Saanen Milking goats. “Wendy, Daphne and Outa” They came to our farm December 2022, relocated from goat dairy that closed down near Brisbane. We have been lucky enough to have had the cheese maker from that dairy mentor us in cheese making! Our goats produce labour 10 litres of milk a day between the 3 of them, we milk at sunrise and make Feta and Soft goat curd cheese!

JERSY COWS

During the 2022 NSW floods we adopted 2 beautiful jersey calves; “Krishna Devi” and “Durga Ma”. They were only 2 weeks old at the time and were rescued off flooded farms in Lismore NSW. We bottle fed, hand raised them with lots of love. They are our devoted house cows. We recently built them a lovely dry shed and dairy. We will do a shared milk arrangement keeping the calves with the mothers and just taking the excess milk for our own use. Its an example how farm animals and dairy animals can be raised with love and care and still provide for there keepers in an old fashioned way.

TIBETAN SPANIELS

Meet Champa Star, Amala Honey Cake, Lucy and Mr magic our pure bred Tibetan Spaniel Dogs. A sweet breed originating from the Himalayas of Tibet loved by Tibetan monks as bed warmers and temple guardians. We have them here on our farm for company. They are the perfect companion dog, they rarely chase the birds, rarely bark and and are very affectionate house dogs.

  • Wheaten Marans

    Marans breed was developed in France, near the Marans and La Rochelle region around the early 1900s. They are a lively hardy chicken that love to free range, great scavengers perfect for commercial layer business, small farm, homestead or back yard. They lay beautiful dark coloured eggs, considered by royal family of England to be superior in taste! A ‘dual purpose’ bird for those that wish to breed for meat as well. The wheaten colour ranges from pale to dark clay colour. I have managed to collect top birds from many breeder all over Australia so the genetics are strong and diverse. FERTILE HATCHING EGGS AVAIL SEASONALLY

  • Black Copper Marans

    Marans are a rare heritage breed first developed in 1900’s in France. Most noted for laying dark eggs. Marans are a hardy lively independent curious chicken that love to free range and go on all kinds of adventures. The Black Copper Maran lay a uniform large dark brown egg and are my pick as a commercial layer or as a dual purpose back yard layer. 6 to 7 mths to maturity. Marans are not overly broody but if they do make excellent mothers. Fertile Eggs available seasonally. bIrds are usually sold in Duos and Trios (with a rooster) so as to help preserve rare breeds. fertile hatching eggs available seasonally Australia wide

  • Brown Leghorn

    Brown Leghorn are a rare colour of one of the original utility breeds. Originally developed for large egg production. These are a flighty vigorous and hardy chicken breed. great fro foraging and love free ranging and freedom of large pen.

  • Cayuga Ducks

    A new addition to our farm these stunning all black ducks are a delightful classic duck. Whilst they are good layers and lay a large white tasty eating egg and they don’t hatch there young very successfully. However we have an abundance of broody Muscovey duck hens that are always happy to incubate and hatch there young.

  • Muscovy Duck

    Unlike other domestic ducks Muscovy are not bred from the Mallard but are unique tropical duck species called ‘Cairina moschata’ originating from the Americas. Thus cross breeding these ducks without other domestic ducks would result in a sterile hybrid. The Muscovey have claws and do fly so you’ll need to clip wings or have a way of keeping them on the property. The drakes can be aggressive to other breeds so keep that in mind if you have mixed flock. However they do make great pets are very calm and unlike other ducks are a quiet quackless duck! Most desirably the muscovy are prolific egg layers of perfect uniform large eggs and have a quality tasty lean dark meat (apparently). They are also excellent sitters and mothers. Many breeders use them to hatch goose eggs!. FERTILE HATCHING EGGS AVAIL SEASONALLY

  • Sebastapol Geese

    The breed is said to have come from Crimea (Ukraine-Russsia) and and were sent from the port of Sevastopol arriving in England in 1860. By the 19th century they were found in all the countries surrounding the Black Sea. They are also known as Danubian Geese. They are admired for their curly feathers and long arching necks and bright blue eyes. They are a quiet, docile goose not aggressive unless you go near there eggs or goslings! They have a sassy attitude and are fun to have around and add beauty to your farm. They breed well and are excellent parents. Geese are family orientated mate for life and are very loyal to family groups. They need to be able to free range and have a small pond or dam for mating and to keep feathers clean. SOLD IN PAIRS ONLY Cost per bird $200 approx.

  • Pomeranian Geese

    Pomeranian Geese developed by Northern German farmers of Pomerania as early as 1500. It is popular as a market goose throughout Europe especially in Germany and Poland there are few breeders remaining and in Australia it is considered a critically endangered domestic breed. The Pomeranian Goose is a hardy docile and beautiful goose that breeds well and are wonderful parents. As with all geese both the gander and the goose participate in protecting and raising the young and stay in family groups for life or until breeding season when they can re-establish order. They are a beautiful farmyard pet can be bread for meat or simple to help keep grass down. They need dam or small pond to reproduce and for a happy life and plenty of grass for grazing. SOLD IN PAIRS ONLY $200 A BIRD

  • Toulouse Geese

    The original Grey Toulouse Goose has been recorded back as far as 1555. Country of Origin: France . The Toulouse Goose was bred in southern France (near the city of Toulouse) originally for pate de Fois Gras, also for meat. Extensive breeding of size was also done in England.

    A heavy breed needs good nutrition when young and opportunity to graze when adult and need a dam to breed. I have found fertility good and if you can protect the goose and her eggs whilst she is siting she is your best bet for hatching. Though they are a bit clumsy as parents and don’t protect there young as well as more aggressive breeds. They are a gentle giants, protective when breeding/nesting but not savage, a bit gregarious at times. Goose eggs are notoriously hard to hatch in incubater and be warned a hand reared Toulouse gosling will steal your heart! We have a bit of a wait list for Toulouse Geese here at our farm. Last season a goanna came in and stole all there eggs! Hoping for a better outcome this year. $250 A BIRD SOLD IN PAIRS ONLY UNLESS EXCESS GANDERS. NA ATM

  • bronze turkeys

    Bronze turkeys are the product of crossing domestic turkeys brought from England, with the wild turkey native to America. The Breed was developed in early 1830’s and was a recognised breed by 1874.For 20 years it was used commercially for meat until white turkey was introduced. However the white turkeys have bread to become so heavy they rarely live to 12 mths and are often not fertile or unanable to mate. Heritage turkeys are on the critically endangered list in Australia which is why it is important to preserve these magnificent birds. Most people breed turkeys for meat however we breed them because they are docile curious and wonderful pets with stunning plumage that add beauty and glamour to your farm. . Fertile eggs available in season.

  • Slate Turkey

    Slate Turkey colour is very beautiful! Turkeys love to free range and forage and will eat herbs and grasses and nearly anything you give them. They need a higher protein feed than chickens especially when young. Turkeys eat a lot, are not cheap to grow out but apparently make good eating! We breed them as pets they are lovely calm curious birds that will devote themselves to you. They do have some flying abilities so fully enclosed enclosures are needed during breeding season so hens don’t wonder off to lay eggs in some obscure location.

  • Silver Appleyard Ducks

    The Silver Appleyard was bred in the 1930s at by Reginald Appleyard. His aim in creating the breed was to create a white-skinned duck with a wide, deep breast, which would also be beautiful to look at and would lay abundant white eggs! The Appleyard duck is dual purpose bird perfect for the small farm wishing to have ducks for meat and eggs or just as pets. They are always busy, very vocal. Whilst they do not readily tame to hand they are easy to train to come off the dam and into night housing when you have a set routine. The Appleyard was never imported to Australia it was re created here and with too few dedicated breeders the genetics are very diverse and difficult to breed to the ‘Standard Of Perfection’. Here at our farm we have brought birds from some of the most reputable breeders in Australia and still find throw back whites and darks and too few of correct genetics. However they are a lively noisy fun bird and we love them. If you like a challenge or just want ducks on your dam we do sell fertile hatching eggs. Eggs $60 doz $30 postage.

  • Guinea Fowl -Keets

    The Guinea Fowl are native to Africa. In the wild guineafowl travel behind herd animals and beneath monkey troops, where they forage within manure and on items that have fallen to the understory from the canopy. They play a pivotal role in the control of ticks, flies, locusts, scorpions, and other invertebrates. They pluck maggots from carcasses and manure. Both Wild and domestic guineafowl are strong flyers, though typically ground dwelling they roost in trees at night and can be hard to train to a coup..

    Young guineafowl (called keets) are very sensitive to weather, in particular cold temperatures. They are noisy creatures and somewhat comic in there behaviour. We have the common colour and mixed colours and have them roaming to reduce tick populations. Fertile Eggs available for postage

If you purchase birds from Sacred earth farm you’ll need first to have secure night housing. A predator proof , clean, dry place to for them nest, perch and to lay eggs.

housing, food and care

 
  • I am constantly astounded at peoples attitude to chickens. Many assume its easy, nothing to know, just throw them some scraps and set them up in a fallen down old pen. Whilst chicken are easy to care for they are incredibly vulnerable to prey and disease. If you pay good money for rare, hand raised heritage birds you will want to keep them in a predator proof housing. Up in Northern NSW these houses ideally need to be snake proof. Its better to put the time and effort into housing on day one than have traumatic tragic event and loose them all and have to replace them. Housing needs to be strong enough to with stand dog attacks that can rip apart flimsy cheap or rotten timber. Use Avery mesh, hard wood or treated pine, and heavy colour bond tin. If you are in hot area you may need some insulation and to build under heavy shade trees or plant trees around the coup. Chickens are jungle birds and hate intense heat and rain. They need access to shelter day and night.

    FOOD: A medicated chick starter crumble until 8 weeks of age. Pullet crumble from 8 to 16 weeks then slowly introduce layer mash or pellet. Soaked grain is a great addition as well (soak whole grain for 24 to 48 hours and strain, mix in layer mash or other protein). Fresh water daily is essential! leave plenty of water in large and small buckets around. If you have chicks use only shallow trays with a rock in it or the water feeders to prevent drowning.

    Hens usually start laying from 5 to 7 mths and so at that age they need extra calcium plus poultry grit or shell in the diet to improve egg shell strength.

    Remember the more effort and care you give your birds the stronger their immunity, the longer they will live, and the better the nutrient value of the eggs.

    Worming: chickens need worming at least every 3mths. I alternate between brands as some are better than others. I either worm 2 days in a row or twice in one week. It can be added to water or to food.

    Other supplements: I make a ‘cure all’ oil for my birds; into large jar filled with olive or vegetable oil I crush; garlic, fresh turmeric, fresh herbs eg tulsi thyme sage, apple cider vinegar, few droops oregano oil, echinacea and raw honey. Leave to soak in fridge for few days then add few tablespoons to food every other day. Great for when disease is present or as a preventative. Do some research be creative and use common sense!

    Diseases: In my area I find the old poultry breeders more useful than local vets. But if you have a good vet use them! Once you have a good grasp on symptoms of diseases you may be able to have medication on hand to treat quickly and prevent losses. Read up on disease and spend time observing your birds so you notice early when they are unwell.

    I also keep all egg shells, cook in low heat oven for 10 min, grind and add to food.

    For growing chicks and young birds I mince up vegetables, give soaked grain, and let birds free range as often as is safe.

    The more you let your birds free range the healthier and happier they will be. Of course that depends on your situation. If you have day time predators such as dogs and foxes and eagles and hawks, full enclosures maybe necessary. Movable pens and or electric poultry netting could be a good option if you are on flat land. Even a single strand of electric fence wire about 1 ft off ground on outside of pen can make all the difference. Digging wire into ground 20 cm is also good.

    Dust baths: If you have your birds in full enclosure ensure they have a place to have a clean dust bath. This more than anything, will help keep away mites and lice.

    Cleanliness is Godliness! Keep your coups clean! If they smell they need cleaning. Especially keep nesting boxes clean. At the very least throw down clean wood chips or straw regularly and clean out as often as is practical.

    Wood shavings seem to last the longest and absorb odour. USE what ever you want to mulch your garden with! Chicken poo is gold for your garden! After cleaning your house hose it down, let dry and then dust with builders lime, helps to kill bacteria, mites and parasites.

  • A common misconception amongst people setting up small farms is that ducks will keep the slugs out fo the vegetable garden and leave the vegetables. Let me tell you ducks will eat everything! Even a small flock will destroy a well vegetated dam! They are terrific foragers. They are better suited to an orchard than a vegetable garden, unless you put them in between crops.

    You need plenty of water to keep ducks. Ideally a small dam, creek or swamp area they can hang out on during the day and be called in at night to a predator proof enclosure. If kept in a small area all day they will turn it to mud and a big mess, they love snouting around and making mud puddles!

    Ducks are just as vulnerable as chickens to fox and dog attack. If you train them at young age to go into. night pen they will do it. Feeding them at night in the pen helps. If you leave water in pen at night it will be a constant battle to keep clean. make sure theybhave had water before bed and lock them up dry. DUCKS MUST HAVE WATER WHEN EATING. All water fowl need to clean bills after eating and prefer wet food. Make sure they always have water (except over night as adults in small pens)

    The hens need a safe dry place to lay eggs. I find my hens lay all eggs at night and swim in the day!

    Muscovys on the other hand are whole other kettle of fish. They are more tame and less busy but I find much harder to herd or to train and they do fly. So you’ll need to keep there wings clipped or have them in full enclosure or in a paddock or yard with electric fencing a dog will not get into.

    Muscovy DRAKES need to be kept away from other breeds ducks and geese as they can attack everything. The hens are sweet and quiet. Muscovy hens also need a nice place to nest. Do not disturb them once they start to nest and lay. They will lay a full clutch then sit reliably just like geese. Or you can take their eggs for eating and let them hatch something else. They do like to be mummas and are very persistent! Eggs take 30 to 35 days to hatch like geese.

    FOOD: Ducklings need extra niacin. Lauke Mills duck goose starter and duck goose finisher is good. Check label of all duck food for added niacin as some brands are misleading. You can add brewers yeast or nutritional yeast when they are young to increase niacin and vitamins. I also give them boiled eggs and plenty greens. Many people give green frozen peas as they are high in niacin. I find this expensive for a large flock. You can also buy poultry supplements for your youngsters.

    As ducks mature and before they start to lay you can add in layer pellets and give them soaked whole grain. Make sure ducklings and adults have shell grit and or sand for gullet digestion.

    DUCKS NEED REGULAR WORMING like chickens. Also there are many duck diseases, so do some research!

    If you are breeding with an incubator I recommend don’t hatch out more than about 8 to 15 in one batch. They are cute at first but then turn into eating pooing machines and get very wild.

    I find raising ducks in small batches with chickens and turkeys make them much calmer. Ducks have to learn trust, they are born with a strong fright flight response.

    Appleyard ducks are very quacky! If noise is an issue get Muscovy, or house ducks away from house they love to chat all night sometimes!

  • There is nothing more magical than a goose. A hand raised gosling can steal your heart and will bond with you follow you everywhere and become your loyal friend. I personally think geese are the most ill represented of all the birds. They seem to have developed a bad reputation, everyone it seems has a negative goose story to tell.

    Geese are wonderful maternal creatures and live by a matriarchal social system. The ganders bond for life with there mate keeping a vigil watch over her whilst she is sits for 35 days to hatch her young. Once the young hatch both gander and goose protect and raise them in the most sensitive and protective way. Its heart warming to see.

    Don’t be fooled though that you can mix breeds a gander will mate with other females if they are the alpha male but always return to the family group they are in. So separate pen required for different breeds.

    Raise goslings on Duck goose starter (Lauke Mills is good brand. You can add brewers yeast for extra niacin. geese are primarily grazers. 8 geese are equivalent to 1 sheep! They must have access to fresh clean grass for a long healthy life.

    Geese need water to breed. Geese are not as obsessed with water as ducks but they do need a dam or large pond for breeding season. Some of small breeds can use a baby paddle pool but larger breed need a dam.

    The goose breeds here at Sacred earth farm are hardy, not smelly, sweet gentle, very entertaining and only show mild protectiveness during peak breeding season. I think they are the most adorable and the most magical of all the water birds.